My mother, grandmother and I in Trafalgar Square, London
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Two weeks
ago was my birthday and as part of a long standing tradition, I had a special
birthday dinner. When I was young, my mother prepared it at home but as time
progressed and my circumstances became more affluent it was succeeded by dinner
at a restaurant - at first with friends in a local chain followed
by an outing with my ex in a more exclusive affair and finally with my adult children.
Thus two of my daughters and I went to an ornate Italian restaurant on the
evening of my birthday with the name of “La Fenice” on King Street in heart of
the theatre district of downtown Toronto and not far from the location of the
Princess of Wales theatre which is playing,
”The War Horse”. The dinner reservation was for 7:30 pm so we could miss the
theatre folk that usually pack the place after the Saturday performance and it
wasn’t crowded so we got the window table where we could observe the exotic
folk on the sidewalk pass by and see the latest fashionistas with their
designer clothes strutting on the pavement. My youngest daughter who got her
diploma in fashion management at George Brown College and goes with me on
shopping expeditions for clothes to ensure that I’m up to date as well as meet
her standards for dress, liked to critique the sidewalk parade which was quite
thick on the balmy evening. She`s quick to notice a Christine Laboutine shoe or
a Tilley shirt. The restaurant name is Italian for “the Phoenix” and references
the opera house of the same appellation in Venice, Italy which is famous both
for its premieres of such operas as Rigoletto as well as burning down several
times over the years hence the name, rising from the ashes of its prior
incarnation. One of the pictures on the walls shows the front of the opera
house in the 1890s. The venue is known for the quality of its seafood and the
charming / discrete waiter brought a platter of a number of freshly caught fish
on ice that had recently been flown from the Mediterranean so the species were
particular to that region. It was good that he was knowledgeable since my
second daughter, the chef, has never found a restaurant that she couldn`t
critique at length and send back any food that was perfectly cooked and plated.
I found the fish on the small side and not that interesting although a native
of the region would find them reminiscent of home. When I first went to “La
Fenice” many years ago I would order the arctic Char which is related to the
Salmon but more delicate and the fish would be big enough to feed two well.
It’s hard to find the fish now days because of restrictions due to over fishing
and the available Char are much smaller than in the past. I couldn’t take any
pictures because my daughters now have a rule that dad doesn’t take pictures of
the food when I go out with them. Frustrating but I understand.
My Uncle, Me, Grandmother and Aunt on their farm in the Yorkshire Dales. |
Started out
with a bottle of rosé Zinfandel and a basket of fresh bread with olive oil and
sweet aged balsamic vinegar that you mix yourself on a side plate. The wine
didn’t have much body and was too sweet to have balance but the kids like it.
For the appetizer, I ordered the “Bresaola della
valtellina con mozzarella” which is cured
beef with fresh bocconcini and “La Fenice” extra virgin olive oil that is their
private estate brand. For the salad, I had the “Insalata caprese” which is a dish consisting of a
variety of heritage tomatoes, fresh mozzarella
and basil. For the main course, I had their seafood platter which consisted of
poached salmon, calamari and four large scallops with seasonal vegetables.
Everything was perfectly cooked with none of the usual chewiness that comes
from overcooking. For desert, I ordered the”Zabaglione”,
warm whipped custard flavoured with
Marsala wine and served with fresh strawberries. My second oldest daughter couldn`t
finish her desert, ”Chocolate Orange Hazelnut
Torte”, sponge cake that had layers of
ground hazelnuts with a whipped milk chocolate ganache flavored with orange and
Grand Marnier so I ate that as well. I finished with a Cappuccino. Usually I
finish with a Niagara region ice wine or a glass of port but I’d had enough at
that point with the extra desert. Ate more than I should but it was my birthday
so I suppose that I had some justification. Afterwards, they gave me a new leather
wristband for my watch and a pair of new walking shoes for presents.
Farm with Angus the dog |
Life seems
so short sometimes. One minute you`re changing diapers and next the children
are off to university. The meal at the restaurant got me thinking about my
childhood when I lived on my uncle’s farm in the Yorkshire Dales not far from the
Brontë parsonage in Haworth where the Brontë sisters grew up. I certainly understand the bleakness of the
moors and the feeling of stepping on a wet spongy surface in the treeless
fields under the constant cold rain. My uncle’s farm was on top of a hill
overlooking a grey stony mill town which lay in one of the valleys that crease
the Pennines. The area really hasn’t changed since Charlotte wrote ``Wurthering
Heights `` which was situated in the local region although under a false name. He
had a goat herd and bees as well as a greenhouse where he grew a variety of
vegetables that certainly wouldn`t survive on the moors. The farm house known
as Rock Cottage was modest but felt warm and safe especially on stormy nights
when the wind would blow against the banging window shutters and the house
seemed like an isolated pocket of humanity in the vast empty expanse of the
moors. We ate exceptionally well compared to the general population since
rationing continued in Britain until 1954 with cheese, meat and clothing being
available in small amounts that could be obtained only with government coupons
while we had access to fresh goat milk, cheese and butter as well as sugar from
the honey while the people in the mill town below had to struggle. I, of
course, being young was unaware of this until much later in my life because my
relatives and family never discussed it.
Rock Cottage |
Britain at
that time was a class society (and still is in many regards) so I with my North
American accent and the cowboy boots that my mother had bought before we left
for England, garnered the “cousin from the colonies” comments and was always an
outsider although my mother’s side of the family were local and my great
grandfather’s eldest son who was killed in World War 1 had his name inscribed
on the plaque in the sanctum sanctorum of the private school in the area near the coast.
My uncle with his chickens |
Later after
we moved back to Canada, I could always maintain a distance and study the scene
and behaviour of the folks in the community from the aspect of a curious but
intelligent observer - a trans Atlantic hybrid with my own unique nationality. Since then I've travelled much and learned a little.
We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
T.S. Elliot
Honey gathering |
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